She Made: discovery & recovery of Ukraine
Sewing Lingerie with a Focus on Women’s Health
Iryna Periv and Iryna Andrusiak
The women’s lingerie brand “Yarii Lingerie,” founded by a scientist, lawyer, public activist, and human rights defender Iryna Periv, along with a lawyer and researcher specializing in gender issues, Iryna Andrusiak, entered the market with a unique mission that goes beyond simply producing fashionable sets. This is a brand created by women for women, with a deep understanding of their needs, focusing on supporting women’s health, comfort, and confidence.
The project “She Made: discovery & recovery of Ukraine” was created by Marie Claire Business Ukraine and UN Women Ukraine funded by The United Nations Women’s Peace and Humanitarian Fund (WPHF). WPHF mobilizes critical support for local and grassroots civil society organizations working on women, peace and security and humanitarian action. WPHF is a flexible and rapid financing mechanism supporting quality interventions designed to enhance the capacity of women to prevent conflict, respond to crises and emergencies, and seize key peacebuilding opportunities.
It sounds like
“Our goal is to make lingerie about health, not sexualization. We aim to create a collection that is comfortable for everyone. This is our dream because the perfect formula for lingerie doesn’t exist — we’re only just discovering it.” — Iryna Periv
- How and when did your business project begin, and what inspired it?
Iryna Periv: The idea emerged about three years ago. At the beginning of the full-scale invasion, the issue of women’s underwear for female soldiers came to light — they had to wear men’s underwear. Even before that, we were already considering what kind of business idea to pursue. We wanted to create something interesting for women, about women. And what could be closer to this topic than women’s lingerie?
Initially, we planned to sew women’s underwear specifically for female soldiers, but things didn’t go entirely as planned. Today, this is being done effectively and on a large scale by the NGO “Zemliachky," a social project supporting women who defend our country in the war against Russian aggressors.
However, we now have our own women’s lingerie brand, “Yarii Lingerie.” The word “Yarii” (in Ukrainian, it is “Ярій”) means “to radiate light.” It’s a forgotten and rarely used word that begins with the letter “Я” (the Ukrainian equivalent of “I am”). And “Я” is about you, about me, about each of us.
“We were united by gender issues: women’s rights, equality, their realization in the world, and their place in civil society... It so happened that this has already become our dream. Iryna and I have a generational difference, but these generations have come together, and their dreams have intertwined into a common goal — we strive to bring our ideas to life, which are filled with philosophy.” — Iryna Andrusiak
Iryna Andrusiak: We were united by gender issues: women’s rights, equality, their realization in the world, and their place in civil society. We have implemented several projects together over the years, and this one is like our child. I must add that my father was a tailor and really wanted me to learn how to sew. But I had some inner resistance: for some reason, I had a distorted view of the profession, and I categorically did not want to sew even a simple seam. My mother, on the other hand, dreamed that I would be successful in business, able to stand up for myself, and be economically independent. So, when the idea of creating a women’s lingerie brand came up, I repeatedly said to Iryna, “God, we are probably fulfilling our parents’ dreams.” And so it happened that this has now become our dream. Iryna and I have a generational difference, but these generations have come together, and their dreams have intertwined into one common goal — we strive to bring our ideas to life, ideas filled with philosophy.
- Each of you has your own profession and area of expertise. You are the founders of the public organization “Yarii.” What united you?
Iryna Andrusiak: I am the author of the course “Legal Support for Gender Equality,” which I teach to law students at the National University of Lviv Polytechnic. I am also the author of a manual for students and anyone interested in gender equality issues. I’ve been teaching this course for over five years. Interestingly, this subject used to be an elective. Now, both men and women view human rights issues equally and understand that only through national consolidation and collective actions can we survive in difficult circumstances.
And after the victory, we will rebuild a legal, democratic, and social state together.
Iryna Periv: I am a lawyer and provide consultancy to internally displaced women. These women have lost everything. Many had specific professions or owned small businesses but were forced to relocate and start over from scratch.
Iryna Andrusiak: As for me, I defended my doctoral dissertation on “Domestic Violence: Prevention and Counteraction.” Iryna is currently working on her candidate dissertation, researching the Ukrainian women’s movement in the free world. At the core of all this is women’s rights. This is the very idea that united us, and with the onset of the full-scale Russian invasion of Ukraine, it can be said that it matured and officially took shape. In general, our theoretical work prompted us to examine the practical aspects of this issue. We thought about female soldiers and women in careers: how to balance motherhood and career growth, how to create jobs, and provide women with employment opportunities. This applies both to women aged 40+ and to young girls who are not hired due to lack of experience. When we realized, as Iryna mentioned, that there are professional organizations sewing women’s underwear for female soldiers, we decided to focus our efforts on lingerie for young girls and teenagers — for those who do not yet need a fully developed cup, as their breasts are still growing and developing, and should never be compressed. Currently, we are striving to develop in this direction.
- From a values-based perspective, it’s clear that your business is an extension of the philosophy behind your research. From a practical business perspective, what goals do you have for the development of your product line?
Iryna Periv: In general, we have many ideas. We understand what will sell and what won’t. We are passionate about beautiful pajamas that are also comfortable. We also plan to develop lingerie for women who have undergone a mastectomy. However, this will take time, as it’s a complex process that requires consultations with doctors. Currently, we are also working on creating specialized gerontological lingerie for older women.
Iryna Andrusiak: Many older women are forced to use large and bulky geriatric pads that require proper fixation. We are working on designing lingerie specifically to address this need.
“Improperly fitted lingerie causes more harm than the benefits of properly fitted lingerie. There are no women with identical breasts. And this is the uniqueness of our brand — we can create lingerie individually based on measurements.” — Iryna Periv
- Over the course of your project, what innovations, design developments, or engineering solutions regarding the models can you already count as achievements?
Iryna Andrusiak: In fact, from all the girls we surveyed, we received the request: “We need a bigger gusset.” Everyone complains that it’s too small and wants a larger one, as well as a softer, terry fabric.
Iryna Periv: Let’s look at the sizing chart in a standard store. What do we see? A, B, 75A, 75B, C, and so on. But let’s face it, no two women have identical breasts. Moreover, even one breast can differ in size from the other. This is the uniqueness of our brand — we sew lingerie based on individual measurements. There are six proper types of fit that we need to consider. The sizing chart is much broader, even beyond the letter “F.”
For example, large breasts require the right cup, balconette, frames, space between the breasts for support, and proper T-seams or darts. We cannot use the same cut for large breasts as for smaller ones. This may not be a new innovation, but all our lingerie includes back fastenings with three or four rows. This ensures comfort for our customers, considering that lingerie stretches and wears over time. It may seem like a small detail, but it shows care for our clients’ needs.
- To sum up the differences from your competitors, could you highlight three characteristics that distinguish you from other manufacturers in Ukraine?
Iryna Periv: Our main focus is on women’s health. We collaborate with the Breast Cancer Prevention Fund “Zhinocha,” which promotes a culture of women’s health awareness. We also work with a bra fitter – a specialist who teaches how to wear lingerie properly and how to choose the right sizes. We are constantly in touch with qualified doctors: a mammologist and a gynecologist. This is also one of our distinctions. Another advantage is our wide size range, which takes into account the individuality of each woman.
“Even if we have some models, there aren’t many — it could be just 2-3 pieces. For example, when a customer orders this or that lingerie on Instagram, we discuss all the details and nuances with her to ensure the lingerie will fit well.” — Iryna Periv
- Do you currently offer custom tailoring?
Iryna Periv: For now, yes. In most cases, we offer custom production. Even if we have some models, there aren’t many — usually only 2-3 pieces are made. When a customer orders a piece of lingerie on Instagram, we discuss all the details and nuances to ensure it will fit well. For example, one woman may wear 75A, and another may also wear 75A, but there are many differences between them.
- Is your production volume determined by demand and orders placed?
Iryna Periv: Yes, we never produce 200 sets at once, because that wouldn't make sense. For example, we offer 5 sizes, produce them, and sell them. We don’t mass-produce — that’s not our mission.
“It's difficult to present lingerie or showcase it in a way that isn’t stereotypical, formulaic, or sexualized. We strive to challenge these gender stereotypes.” — Iryna Periv
- Besides developing and adapting a business model, what other challenges do you face today?
Iryna Andrusiak: First and foremost, it’s the search for qualified workers. Not all seamstresses or tailors are willing to work on lingerie. And it’s not just about salary or skills. People are often hesitant because it’s delicate work with extremely fine materials that requires a specialized approach to equipment.
Iryna Periv: Secondly, it’s society’s stereotypical thinking. When we say we sell lingerie, people often ask why we have so few photos on our Instagram. It’s challenging to present lingerie in a way that avoids stereotypes and sexualization. We work hard to break these gender stereotypes on our Instagram page. As for the third challenge, it’s finding adequate premises. And of course, power outages are a problem — no electricity, no work.
It sounds like
- We are currently at the production site of another brand, which has welcomed you and provided part of its premises for your needs. Can we discuss this business partnership, and perhaps even explore the concept of business sisterhood?
“My acquaintance with the team of ‘Yarii Lingerie’ began with... the spark in the eyes of one of the founders of this brand, Iryna Periv. To me, Iryna was the most active participant in the ‘DREAMS IN ACTION’ project. Since I’m just a couple of hours older than Iryna, I was happy to share my experience with her, and she gratefully accepted it. Our communication continued outside the project, evolving into more of a relationship focused on advice, consultations, and support. This later developed into sharing space, joint activities, shared sewing machines, and collaborative work. You know, it’s not as simple as it seems to create a brand, sew lingerie, and sell it quickly. I started my journey in the fashion industry over 20 years ago and have already ‘navigated’ through all the possible pitfalls. When it seems easy — to create a brand, sew clothes or lingerie, and quickly sell it — it only appears that way. Before the full-scale war, we had an office and showroom in Kyiv’s Podil district — a beautiful and atmospheric location. It was a perfect fit for all the fairs in Kontraktova Square. After relocating to Lviv, we built a new team, focused on content, and systematized our sales department. As a result, now we have nearly 30 people working with us. Moreover, we can afford to host other brands only because we took a space that was a bit ‘larger than needed,’ as we outgrew our previous one in just six months. This approach aligns with the social aspect of my company ‘Zerno,’ and complements my philosophy of support and happiness. It also fits into my personal strategy, as I plan to develop myself as a mentor, someone who can support women just starting out, because my favorite topic is how to turn a hobby into a business.”
“We applied, completed the training, went through the selection process, and received $10,000. This became our starting capital, which we used to move forward. We purchased the high-quality fabric we had always dreamed of, as well as the sewing machines. And those machines are incredible! We gave each one a name and take great care of them, making sure to dust off every little speck.” — Iryna Periv
- Regarding the project by The National Network for the Development of Local Philanthropy, supported by UN Women Ukraine and WPHF, through which you received the grant. We also saw four of your sewing machines, which you are so proud of. How has your brand’s journey changed after participating in the program?
Iryna Periv: The project was called “DREAMS IN ACTION.” We came across the information on their Facebook page. At that time, we had already received a microgrant of $500. We had one household sewing machine, which worked well for lace, and a small supply of fabric and tools. So, we were able to meet our basic needs. While brainstorming ideas for the future, we saw the announcement for the program. It felt symbolic because we had a dream that needed to become a reality. We applied, completed the training, went through the selection process, and received $10,000 from the foundation. This funding became our starting capital. We bought high-quality fabrics we had dreamed of and the sewing machines we needed. And those machines are incredible! Those machines are incredible — we even gave each one a name and take great care of them. Participating in this project helped shape our business-focused approach, and it was when we established our social mission. At the beginning of the project, we had one set of ideas, but as we worked with experts on our plans, we ended up with a completely different vision. After the project, we received mentoring support and we’re grateful for the connections we made. We continue to keep in touch with many of the participants, including Khrystyna, because, although we are from the same city, we didn’t know each other before.
It sounds like
“We’re currently trying to dream cautiously, given the difficult times. But… it’s almost impossible not to dream.” — Iryna Andrusiak
- If we focus on the social aspect of your business project, does it involve the interests of the local or national community and its residents?
Iryna Periv: At the moment, we are interacting locally. We collaborate with girls who are deprived of parental care. We organize various events and lectures, and we set aside 10% from each piece of lingerie sold to later make lingerie as a gift for these girls. Additionally, we plan to establish a mentorship program where our clients can become mentors for these girls.
Iryna Andrusiak: We’re currently trying to dream cautiously, given the difficult times. But… it’s almost impossible not to dream. So, I’ll share a secret. We are dreaming and already working on developing a corset collection. For now, it’s more of a philosophical idea than a business one. Throughout history, the corset has been a garment that confined women and even caused harm. But we want to create a corset worn over clothing, over a shirt. It will enhance a woman’s wardrobe, rather than restricting her and confining her within certain boundaries. By the way, we are working with “whalebone” (a material used in corsetry and lingerie to provide structure and support — Editor’s note), along with various fabrics and embroidery.
Iryna Periv: We aim to turn corsets into manifestos. They will feature excerpts from the Universal Declaration of Human Rights and quotes from authors who have addressed the issues of Ukrainian womanhood — Olha Kobylianska and Oksana Zabuzhko, whose works highlight themes of Ukrainian national identity and gender. While 100-200 years ago, corsets symbolized oppression and stereotypes about women, today, we want them to symbolize women’s rights and empowerment.
Iryna Andrusiak: Our collaboration with the “Zerno” brand in this direction, along with their expertise in embroidery and ability to incorporate ethnic elements into garments like corsets, is something we are carefully developing. We hope to bring joy to our clients, and at the moment, we are pouring a great deal of creativity into this project.
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The idea and coordination of the project: the UN Women Ukraine team. The civil society organizations that were involved in selecting entrepreneurship stories: The National Network for the Development of Local Philanthropy.
Media Expedition: General Producer of Marie Claire Business and Project Creative Director: Julia Brosko. Head of Brand Marie Claire Ukraine: Kateryna Fastovets. Expedition Team Administration: Yanina Provotar. Photos on this page: Nadia Berska. Video: Marharyta Omelchuk. Editing: Viktor Khodosov. Texts: Julia Brosko. Retouching: Olena Chykylova. Web: Vitalii Provotar. Expedition Driver: Svitlana Sapon.
The United Nations Women’s Peace and Humanitarian Fund (WPHF) is the only global mechanism exclusively dedicated to supporting women’s participation in peacebuilding, security processes, and humanitarian assistance. Governed by a group of representatives from civil society, governments, and the UN, WPHF is a multi-partner trust fund that mobilizes urgently needed funding for local, women-led organizations and works alongside women on the front lines to build sustainable peace.
Since 2016, WPHF has provided funding and strengthened the capacity of more than 1,000 local women’s civil society organizations working on the "Women, Peace, and Security" agenda and implementing humanitarian initiatives in 41 crisis-affected countries worldwide.
This publication is produced with funding from the United Nations Women’s Peace and Humanitarian Fund (WPHF), however, the views expressed and content included does not imply official endorsement or acceptance by the United Nations.