She Made: discovery & recovery of Ukraine
Ordinary Wines from the Raspberry Capital of Ukraine
Alla Shcherbyna
Alla Shcherbyna is a craft winemaker specializing in ordinary wines from the Chyhyryn lands. Her journey began in 2012 with the planting of her first raspberry seedlings and has since earned her recognition, including two gold medals for her wines in 2023 and 2024. Each product release represents the culmination of years of dedication, expertise, and a deep passion for natural winemaking.
The project “She Made: discovery & recovery of Ukraine” was created by Marie Claire Business Ukraine and UN Women Ukraine funded by The United Nations Women’s Peace and Humanitarian Fund (WPHF). WPHF mobilizes critical support for local and grassroots civil society organizations working on women, peace and security and humanitarian action. WPHF is a flexible and rapid financing mechanism supporting quality interventions designed to enhance the capacity of women to prevent conflict, respond to crises and emergencies, and seize key peacebuilding opportunities.
“Lebedyn is the raspberry capital, where people grow raspberries instead of potatoes.” — Alla Shcherbyna, founder of the family farm “Collection of Fruit Wines.”
- Could you tell us how your business started? Did you have any assets at the beginning?
Alla Shcherbyna: The story is both ordinary and extraordinary. Our great-grandparents had vineyards. My great-grandfather made wine and kept a wine cellar. It’s fascinating that in central Ukraine, there were once vineyards and even melon fields (open fields for growing melons far from homes — Editor’s note). Unfortunately, when Soviet rule came, everything was destroyed.
In 2010, my husband and I received a wedding gift from our parents—a plot of land and a small country house. From that moment, we began searching for our path. We wanted to do something that was both interesting and profitable. We tried everything—growing beans, planting cucumbers. Then, we decided to visit relatives in Lebedyn. As I mentioned, Lebedyn is the raspberry capital, where people grow raspberries instead of potatoes.
My sister offered us some raspberry seedlings to see if we might be interested. In 2012, we planted raspberries and really liked it. At first, it was just a small plantation. We learned how to grow and cultivate them and eventually had the soil analyzed, as we wanted to take a more professional approach. To optimize the growing conditions, we installed a drip irrigation system and started thinking about sales.
We had excellent harvests and realized we could make a good profit, so we decided to expand the plantation. This allowed us to provide seasonal jobs for the local community, from early spring to late autumn. One year, however, we had a rainy summer, and our harvest spoiled very quickly—it couldn’t reach the end consumer. We harvested raspberries, but they lost their marketable appearance almost immediately. That’s when the idea of making wine came to us.
We tried it, and the wine was so unusual and unique that we decided to offer it to a local restaurateur. She liked it, but to sell it, we needed to legalize the product.
She advised us to visit the Institute of Horticulture of the National Academy of Agrarian Sciences of Ukraine in Kyiv. A professor there noted that our wine was an excellent sample.
Later, we met a technologist who explained that raspberry wine was very popular during the Trypillian culture. This was because raspberries spoiled quickly, fermented rapidly, and yeast easily formed on them. Raspberry wine, therefore, became one of the first wines in central Ukraine. We began developing this idea further.
- Why did you choose Chyhyryn for your activities and project?
Alla Shcherbyna: This is a place steeped in history. I’m originally from Cherkasy, but I had never been to Chyhyryn before I got married. When I first climbed Bohdan’s Hill (where Bohdan Khmelnytsky defeated the army of the Polish king—Editor’s note), it felt like a journey into history for me. I still tell my husband, "Close your eyes. Can you imagine Cossacks riding their horses over there and cooking kulish over here?" You can feel the atmosphere here; this place is incredibly powerful. It’s as if you’re transported back in time. Essentially, we’re walking in the footsteps of Bohdan Khmelnytsky.
- Did Bohdan Khmelnytsky drink raspberry wine? (Laughs)
Alla Shcherbyna: (Laughs) I think it would be fascinating to find out. I believe he must have drunk some kind of wine. In central Ukraine, fruit and berry winemaking was quite well-developed. I’ve learned that there used to be small distilleries and breweries. People made beverages for themselves and sold them to taverns. So, considering the times and circumstances, it probably did happen. There was cherry wine, liqueurs, and other drinks. Maybe there was raspberry wine too!
“We received our first gold medal at the Wine Spirit Awards for our raspberry wine from the 2023 harvest. In 2024, we introduced the world to our blackcurrant wine, which also earned recognition.”
- Your wines have already received awards. Could you tell us more about that?
Alla Shcherbyna: We received our first gold medal at the Wine Spirit Awards for our raspberry wine from the 2023 harvest. In 2024, we introduced the world to our blackcurrant wine, which also received recognition. We find it incredibly unique, and it has garnered a lot of positive feedback. The first tasting of our blackcurrant wine was conducted by professional taster Tetiana Korda during Christmas 2023. She had previously worked at a renowned Ukrainian winery and helped us organize this tasting, which turned out to be an incredibly fascinating experience for us.
We rediscovered our wine, uncovering so many new flavors. After that, we decided that while our raspberry wine is exceptional, our blackcurrant wine also deserves recognition.
- What other fruits and berries do you use to make wine, and in what quantities?
Alla Shcherbyna: We experiment with many flavors.
"If we consider the total amount of raw materials—raspberries, blackcurrants, cherries, apples, and grapes—that we process, it’s approximately 2 tons per year. Of course, we can’t supply such a quantity on our own. For example, the majority of the raw materials for our blackcurrant wine come from our own blackcurrants, while the rest is purchased from local residents or entrepreneurs to support local farmers."
From this total amount of raw materials, we produce approximately 2 tons of aged wine per year.
- Do you select any specific grape varieties?
Alla Shcherbyna: Currently, our brand is called "Collection of Fruit Wines." However, when we initially considered a name, one option was "Collection of Homemade Wines," as we lean more toward craft and homemade-style wine. Our wine is made from homegrown grape varieties, often referred to as technical grapes, but they are incredibly diverse.
At one point, we tried to research the name of a grape variety that was planted more than 50 years ago in my hometown. Some call it "Tysyachnyk" (Thousander), others "One Thousand and One Nights," but we still haven’t discovered its true name. We don’t limit ourselves to a single variety in our wine—instead, we create blends through co-fermentation (assemblages).
- Tell us, does your wine appear at exhibitions and fairs? What is important to you in communicating with customers?
Alla Shcherbyna: We frequently participate in various fairs across central Ukraine. A friend of ours once brought our wine to a fair at the Hryshko Botanical Garden, where he made mulled wine using a blend of raspberry and cherry wines.
For us, receiving feedback from customers after they’ve purchased our wine is very important. Sometimes we get messages like, "Your wine has traveled to Turkey," or "It was such a wonderful gift—we sent it to Poland," or "You’re doing an amazing job! Your wine tastes incredible." Feedback like this is incredibly inspiring. It shows us that what we’re doing isn’t just interesting for ourselves but also meaningful to others.
We already position ourselves this way and hope that our wine will become a true hallmark of the Chyhyryn region. We collaborate with a local cafe and know that people from different parts of the country visit there, try our wine, and then buy it as gifts. This is how our wine ends up traveling all across Ukraine.
- Where else can your product be found today? Where do you sell your wine?
Alla Shcherbyna: When it comes to selling our wine, we’re not aiming for the mass market. Instead, we focus on "green estates," online sales, and small shops. Our goal is to maintain a sense of exclusivity and craftsmanship. This approach aligns with the natural quality of our wine. If we delve deeper into this topic, we’ll remember that wine is traditionally stored in cellars. Unfortunately, on supermarket shelves, our wine wouldn’t maintain its intended quality, as we prioritize unfortified, natural wine.
One bottle of wine is priced at 250 UAH.
“When we talk about grape wine, we focus on aging, but with raspberry wine, it’s about ordinariness. A one-year-old raspberry wine reaches its peak in terms of flavor, aroma, and richness.”
- Are fruit and berry wines easier to stabilize than grape wines? Do you follow specific recipes or use modern technologies, considering that winemaking can sometimes be unpredictable?
Alla Shcherbyna: Every harvest of raspberries or other berries, by the time it becomes wine, reflects the environmental conditions of that year — how much rain fell in spring, how many sunny or rainy days there were in summer. The ripening process of the berries is crucial, and this process varies across different regions. The berries are enriched with phenols and dry matter, while different varieties offer their own distinct aromas and flavor profiles.
We’ve had the opportunity to study the "Kyiv Early" and "Rubin" raspberry varieties, which produce the fragrance and aroma we love and that define the character of our wine today. We strive to maintain this standard. Generally, during the creation and refinement of each wine, technical specifications are established to guide its production.
Wine evolves over time because it’s a living component that acquires unique flavors and aromas under varying external conditions.
From year to year, wine can change. That’s why, when we talk about grape wine, we emphasize aging, but with raspberry wine, it’s about ordinariness. A one-year-old raspberry wine reaches its peak in terms of flavor, aroma, and richness, after which it begins to transform.
We already have raspberry wine that has transformed over time, acquiring a cognac-like color and flavors reminiscent of mulberries, cherries, and even cognac itself. Over time, you would never guess it was once raspberry or blackcurrant wine. This is why the peak for fruit wines is at one year.
“Our small dream was a wood chipper. It just so happened that with small steps and small dreams, we are building our big project.”
- Do you have any development plans?
Alla Shcherbyna: Currently, we are a micro-winery, as we produce up to 10 decaliters of wine. That is, if we are currently processing 2 tons of raw materials, but can handle up to 10 tons as allowed by law, we need to "grow" to such a volume, expand our primary wine aging facility, and generally scale up our production while increasing our assortment. We position ourselves as a farming enterprise: we already have some experience as agricultural producers and can grow raw materials ourselves. That’s why we are constructing a new facility—a primary processing workshop.
We don’t want to limit ourselves to wine; we also plan to process fruits and vegetables.
Right now, we have many options for what we can produce: candied fruits, teas, and fruit leathers. The future primary processing workshop is our opportunity for scaling up.
Our small dream was a wood chipper. It just so happened that with small steps and small dreams, we are building our big project.
It sounds like
- We’re glad this dream has already come true and that you’ve received a wood chipper! We noticed that you’re also helping your neighbors with cutting branches. Could you share why this has been so important?
Alla Shcherbyna: If we look at the areas where we live, unfortunately, there’s a trend of people moving from hamlets and villages to larger towns and cities. As a result, in these villages, land becomes available where crops, fruits, or vegetables could be cultivated. However, these plots often become overgrown with brush. When we assessed the amount of work required to clear these areas, we realized that the land needed to be freed from trees. Thanks to the support program from UN Women Ukraine, WPHF, and the Rural Women’s Business Network, we were able to obtain this equipment. For our needs, we specifically chose a wood chipper made by a Ukrainian manufacturer! With it, we’re clearing land that can later be used for planting trees and orchards.
Thanks to the wood chipper, we can now repurpose some of the thicker branches as firewood to supply fuel for ourselves and our parents, while allowing some of the chipped material to decompose naturally. If we notice elderly neighbors in need of help, we assist them! It’s a great way to save on fuel costs for everyone. The thinner branches are used as mulch for our raspberries, blackcurrants, and fruit trees. This is essential because the wood chips helped retain moisture for our bushes and trees during this rainless summer in our region, ensuring a successful harvest.
- You help the local community by clearing land. How else does your business contribute to the development of the local community?
Alla Shcherbyna: We’ve noticed that people often either cut down their plantings or make winter preserves from vegetables, berries, or fruits — not because they want to enjoy them later, but because they don’t know what else to do with the produce hanging on their bushes and trees.
"Residents with low incomes are trying to figure out how to sustain themselves. That’s why we announce in the community, for example, that we need raspberries and are ready to buy them. This way, local residents don’t have to destroy their plantings and instead have an opportunity to earn money. This is how we strive to support those living in our community."
“Every important issue should have an ombudsman. It would be great to have an advisor on small business development so that every aspiring entrepreneur could seek advice and receive real, effective, and tangible support.”
- What other needs does the community have, in your opinion?
Alla Shcherbyna: The most pressing need is support for small businesses at their early stages so they can grow from small to medium-sized enterprises and continue expanding. This means creating jobs, generating income, and reducing the outflow of people from villages. Currently, people are leaving, and communities are losing their populations.
Today, I see many women entrepreneurs, but there are still many who are hesitant to formalize their businesses. Taking the first step to work officially is always the hardest because there are so many fears, stereotypes, uncertainties, and the constant, dynamic changes in legislation. I believe we need to actively unite in support networks and seek assistance.
In my opinion, support should come in three forms: educational, organizational, and financial. I am deeply grateful to UN Women Ukraine, WPHF, and other organizations that provide such opportunities. I know many people involved in craft production and business, and I want to share this message with them and other producers: don’t be afraid to collaborate with different organizations! Take part in training programs and forums for self-development and progress!
And overall, every important issue should have an ombudsman. It would be great to have an advisor on small business development so that every aspiring entrepreneur could seek advice and receive real, effective, and tangible support.
- What is your business dream?
Alla Shcherbyna: Perhaps our biggest dream is to open a cafe right here on this property. Chyhyryn is a tourist region. We believe in victory — we print parts for victory (Alla Shcherbyna’s family, on their own initiative, prints parts using a 3D printer at the request of the military — Editor’s note), we donate for victory, we work for victory, and we believe that tourists will come to visit us.
We have a place where they can stay, and we have the opportunity to create a winery that could welcome tourists, friends, acquaintances, and locals. Our vision is to revive the culture of craft winemaking and wine appreciation!
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The idea and coordination of the project: the UN Women Ukraine team. The civil society organizations that were involved in selecting entrepreneurship stories: The Rural Women's Business Network.
Media Expedition: General Producer of Marie Claire Business and Project Creative Director: Julia Brosko. Head of Brand Marie Claire Ukraine: Kateryna Fastovets. Expedition Team Administration: Yanina Provotar. Photos on this page: Nadia Berska. Video: Marharyta Omelchuk. Editing: Viktor Khodosov. Texts: Julia Brosko. Retouching: Olena Chykylova. Web: Vitalii Provotar. Expedition Driver: Svitlana Sapon.
The United Nations Women’s Peace and Humanitarian Fund (WPHF) is the only global mechanism exclusively dedicated to supporting women’s participation in peacebuilding, security processes, and humanitarian assistance. Governed by a group of representatives from civil society, governments, and the UN, WPHF is a multi-partner trust fund that mobilizes urgently needed funding for local, women-led organizations and works alongside women on the front lines to build sustainable peace.
Since 2016, WPHF has provided funding and strengthened the capacity of more than 1,000 local women’s civil society organizations working on the "Women, Peace, and Security" agenda and implementing humanitarian initiatives in 41 crisis-affected countries worldwide.
This publication is produced with funding from the United Nations Women’s Peace and Humanitarian Fund (WPHF), however, the views expressed and content included does not imply official endorsement or acceptance by the United Nations.